T005 Collar & sleeves

Posted by Jessica Crevier on

Today we are going to sew the back pleat, the shoulder yoke, the collar, the sleeves and sleeve plackets. The sewing instructions are taken from the pattern, but I added some of my personal notes. If you have any question, you can contact me at info@kommatiapatterns.com or in the comment section below!

Back to the intro page here.

SEWING NOTES

Unless stated otherwise, stitch at 12mm (½") from the edge and match notches and markings with the same numbers.

Assemble RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, namely by placing the right side of a piece against the right side of another one – the right side being the side showing when the garment is worn.

GLOSSARY
STAY-STITCH: stitch at 3mm (⅛") from the seam line, in the seam allowance.
BAR TACK: stitch with a closely set and narrow zigzag for about 10mm (⅜") to strengthen a seam.

STEP 07
Make the pleat on back piece by folding the piece RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER to match up the pleat notches. Stitch a straight line from the notches to ➌, open the piece and align the seam in the middle of the pleat. Press the stitched part of the pleat. Then, fold and press the back piece top edge at 6mm (¼") to RIGHT SIDE of the fabric. Repeat with the front pieces top edges.









STEP 08
Stitch the back part of the yoke to the top edge of the back piece and the front part to the top edges of the front pieces. To do so, shift the yoke edges to align them with the edges folded in. Then, stitch down the seam allowances of the front and back pieces to the yoke at 2mm (⅛") from the folded edges. Then, make a second row of stitches at 2mm (⅛") from the seam line.











STEP 09
Stitch the collar pieces together along the short sides and outer edge, trim the seam allowances to half and turn to RIGHT SIDE. Press the collar and topstitch close to the finished edges.





STEP 10
Baste the collar raw edge to one piece of collar stand, between ➍. On the remaining collar stand piece, fold in and press its lower edge at 12mm (½"). Then, stitch together both collar stand pieces between ➎. Trim the seam allowances to half and turn to right side. Press. **Before doing so, be sure that interfacing was added to the collar stand around the button and buttonhole area.







STEP 11
STAY-STITCH the garment neckline. Stitch the collar stand to WRONG SIDE of the neckline edge. While doing so, be sure you match up ➏. Then, line up the lower folded edge on the collar stand with the stitching line. Topstitch around the collar stand. **Stay-stitching will help stabilizing the neckline. Do not unpick them once the collar is attached to the garment.













STEP 12
Slit along the opening line on sleeves and stitch one long side of the sleeve placket to WRONG SIDE of the sleeves, along the opening. To do so, shift the placket edge slightly toward the middle of the opening to match up ➐.





STEP 13
Fold in the remaining long side of plackets at 12mm (½") and fold again to line up the fold with the stitches. Stitch down the plackets near the stitching line. Stitch diagonally in the top corner of each sleeve placket.











STEP 14
Make the pleats on bottom of sleeve, as indicated on the pattern, and press. Then, STAY-STITCH the bottom of the sleeve. Fold and press the sleeve top edge at 6mm (¼") to RIGHT SIDE of the fabric.



STEP 15
Stitch the sleeves to the body by matching up ➑. To do so, shift the edges on the body to align them with the edges folded in. Stitch down the sleeves seam allowances to the body at 2mm (⅛") from the folded edges. Then, make a second row of stitches at 2mm (⅛") from the seam line. **Be sure that the sleeve plackets are placed to the BACK of the garment!









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