Tall and Petite fit adjustments

Posted by Jessica Crevier on

A lot of brands offer a ‘tall’ or ‘petite’ fit along their regular fit, which means that the length of the garments was readjusted to keep the same proportion on a taller or shorter person. Let's see how you can do this with your patterns.

 

STANDARD HEIGHT

The standard height is the one the pattern designer will use to adjust the patterns and just like sizes, this might change from one brand to another. This information is usually displayed in the ‘body measurement chart’. Before you do anything to your pattern, check the finished measurement of the garment. Do you like it? Even if your height is standard, you might want to change the length anyway. Everybody has different taste.

**Note that this adjustment does not change the style of the garment, only the proportion. If you want to modify a mini skirt into a knee length, the process will be very different.

 

PROPORTIONS

Should you choose to lengthen or shorten the pattern, bare in mind that each body section doesn’t grow by the same amount. For instance, the upper part of the bust will not grow as much as your legs. Whatever measurement you want to add or remove to a pattern, use the measurements listed below as a guide to distribute appropriately. Otherwise, you can use these measurements as is.

 

Upper bust: 6mm (0.25in)

Sleeve head: 6mm (0.25in)

Torso: 12mm (0.5in)

Biceps: 12mm (0.5in)

Pelvis: 12mm (0.5in)

Forearms: 12mm (0.5in)

Thighs: 25mm (1in)

Lower leg: 25mm (1in)

 

STEPS

1- First, locate the ‘adjustment lines’ on your pattern by checking the pattern symbol list. Then, slit through the pattern along these lines.

 

 

2-To lengthen, you’ll need to spread the pieces and fill in the gap with scraps of paper taped below the pattern.

 

 

To shorten, overlap the pieces and tape them together.

 

 

3-Put a ruler against the grain line of each piece and check that it’s straight. If not, remove the tapes and rearrange the pieces until the grain line is straight again. Finally, redraw the pattern outline along the affected line. You might need extra pieces of paper to fill in the gaps in armholes or very curved edges.

 

 

1 comment


  • This is really helpful information!

    Vanessa on

Leave a comment