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TROUBLESHOOT sewing with knits & double needles

Posted by Jessica Crevier on

Can't get enough of basic jerseys in your wardrobe? It's only natural, everybody loves to wear jersey and knitted fabrics. So soft and so comfortable, they drape and adapt easily to our body shape. However, they can be more difficult to work with than woven fabrics. If you wish to sew more knits or start to sew with knits, but get frustrated when problems arise, refer to this cheat sheet containing the most common problems when sewing with knits. Here's also a printer friendly version to bring with you in your sewing headquarters!

TROUBLESHOOTING - SEWING WITH KNITS

Problem Solutions
Skipped
stitches and snags
Be sure to use a stretch needle.
Replace your needle with a new one.
Use a bigger stretch needle size.
Fabric
sinks into the needle plate
Start your seam at about 3mm (⅛") from the fabric edge.
While you sew, keep a slight tension in your fabric, but do not stretch it.
Use a slightly longer stitch length.
Wavy
seams
Use a walking foot OR while you sew, place a tissue paper between the machine and the bottom fabric piece.
Use a slightly longer stitch length.
Be sure to use a spandex blend knit.
Press your seam before starting a new one.
Stitches
break when stretched
Be sure to sew with a textured thread in the bobbin as it has more stretch than an all-purpose thread.
Do not use a cotton or silk thread.
Be sure to use a stitch adapted for knits such as a zigzag or a straight stretch stitch.

 

 TROUBLESHOOTING - SEWING WITH DOUBLE NEEDLES

Problem Solutions
A “tunnel” is formed between the two stitches Re-thread your sewing machine.
Tension may be too high.
The distance between your double needle is too wide. As a rule of thumb, the lighter the fabric, the smaller the gap must be between the needles.
Threads
get tangled
Be sure to thread both spools so that they unwind in opposite directions.
Re-thread the needle before starting a new seam.

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